If you aim to spark a lively debate during your upcoming holiday meal, ask your guests about the origins of wine, and you might hear familiar names like France, Italy, or Greece. However, many scholars assert that the birthplace of wine is Georgia, the small former Soviet Republic. Scientific evidence points to 8,000-year-old wine residue found on pottery fragments in Georgia.
This country, with a population of nearly four million, shares its borders with Russia and has endured millennia of invasions and wars, witnessing the rise and fall of multiple dynasties. Despite the challenges, Georgian grapes have managed to persist.
Embark on a journey through Georgia, and you’ll encounter individuals dedicated to promoting and safeguarding the ancient vines. Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital, is dominated by the imposing figure of the Mother of Georgia. Positioned high above the city, she brandishes a sword in her right hand to repel enemies and holds a bowl of wine in her left to extend a warm welcome to friends.
This spirit of hospitality and the rich history of winemaking permeate Georgia. Even urban dwellers cultivate vines on their small balconies, contributing to the continuation of this longstanding tradition.
Small family vineyards stretch across the countryside, while larger producers export millions of bottles globally. However, to truly grasp the rich history of wine in Georgia, we journeyed to the fertile River Valley of Kakheti to visit the Alaverdi Monastery.
Situated at the base of the Caucasus Mountains, the monastery resembles a fortress, and we were graciously welcomed inside its walls. Our host was Georgian Orthodox Bishop David, who oversees three monks residing within the medieval compound. Theirs is a quiet existence, dedicated to God and the divine pursuit of crafting the perfect glass of wine.
Sharyn Alfonsi: How many bottles of wine are produced here each year?
Bishop David (translated): We produce 20,000 bottles, with a maximum capacity of 50,000 bottles. The wine cellar can hold up to 30 tons of wine.
Sharyn Alfonsi: With four monks producing 20,000 bottles, that seems like a lot of work. Do they ever get to sleep?
Bishop David (translated): We manage to sleep and work simultaneously. (laughs)
Local residents contribute to working the land, but for centuries, the monks have served as the custodians of these ancient vines. According to Bishop David, the monastery, dating back to the sixth century, had vines planted from its very inception.
Sharyn Alfonsi: Does the act of making wine bring you closer to God?
Bishop David (translated): Certainly. Whether we are in the vineyard or the wine cellar, we always feel the presence of God.
Grapes have held a sacred significance in Georgia for centuries. In ancient times, wine was regarded as a divine elixir and offered to the gods to seek favor.
Georgian soldiers would affix a piece of grapevine inside their uniforms, close to their hearts, believing it would protect them. This gesture also symbolized the belief that, even in death, a vine would sprout from their hearts.
While humans are mortal, Georgian vines are seen as eternal.
For centuries, Georgian monks have adhered to the same winemaking process, creating reds, whites, and distinctive “ambers.” The method is uniquely Georgian, involving the use of large clay pots called qvervi, buried six feet deep under the monastery, for fermenting, storing, and aging the wine.
This traditional winemaking approach is deeply rooted in Georgian culture, with many households having qveris in their cellars. However, today, only a few artisans continue the tradition of handcrafting these sizable clay vessels, some of which can hold up to 900 gallons of wine.
The qvervi is filled with pressed grapes, along with their skins, stalks, and juice, and then buried underground to maintain a consistent temperature.
Every day during the harvest, monks walk through the revered halls of the monastery to bless the wine cellar and grapes, toasting the abundance brought by their vineyards.
Most of the monk’s wine is sold, and some is shared during Sunday communion inside the Alaverdi Cathedral.
On this day, a haunting chant, titled ‘you are the vineyard,’ resonates inside the cathedral dome. Written 900 years ago by a former king turned monk, it honors Georgia’s profound connection to its religion and wine.
Lit by candles, it’s challenging to see the scars of the cathedral, which has endured earthquakes and invasions.
In the 20th century, Russians attempted to erase Georgian culture by whitewashing the cathedral interiors, covering 11th-century frescoes, and using the monastery’s qveris to store gasoline. However, miraculously, many vines were unharmed.
Bishop David reveals that today, the monastery’s grounds still cultivate 100 grape varieties, some dating back 900 years.
Sharyn Alfonsi: And how does the wine taste?
Bishop David (translated): Not to talk about taste, it’s better to taste it ourselves.
Sitting near the ancient qveris, the bishop opens a bottle.
Bishop David (translated): When tasting the qveri wine for the first time, a person might think they are trying something very different.
Sharyn Alfonsi: Oh, it does look golden, amber. Look at that color!
Bishop David (translated): And they say in Georgia that– “The eye drinks and the eye eats”; that’s what we have to be thankful to God.
Sharyn Alfonsi: There’s much to be thankful to God in this glass.
Bishop David (translated): Of course, it could not be any other way.
The wine is heavenly, with notes of citrus, spices, and honey. It is as complex as the history of Georgia, but in a glass.
Georgia’s future is also intertwined with its wines, inspiring chefs like Tekuna Gachechiladze.
Sharyn Alfonsi: How much is wine a part of the story of this country?
Chef Tekuna: This is, you know, the question: Wine or food? Or food or wine? You know? It’s so together because we don’t imagine our everyday life without the wine. And the wine, it’s one of the most important parts of our history, culture, and food as well.
At 49, Tekuna wasn’t supposed to pursue a career as a chef. While studying psychology in New York, she worked at a restaurant, where she fell in love with both cooking and the chef. Abandoning her psychology degree and the romantic relationship, she enrolled in culinary school in Manhattan.
Now recognized as the ‘godmother’ of Georgia’s culinary scene, Tekuna runs the popular Café Littera in Tbilisi, known for its innovative menu and wine pairings. In an interview with Sharyn Alfonsi, Tekuna discusses her role in revolutionizing Georgian cuisine.
Sharyn Alfonsi asks about the response from Georgians to the culinary evolution, and Tekuna explains her approach of experimenting and creating new recipes based on tradition. Initially facing resistance, she emphasizes that tradition is always evolving, as every dish was once innovative.
Situated at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, Georgia’s cuisine reflects a fusion of influences from China, America, and Europe. Tekuna attributes this to Georgia’s historical role as a hub and the impact of various invasions and foreign rule, bringing diverse tastes, spices, and cooking methods.
During the interview, Tekuna serves a Georgian dinner, showcasing the fusion nature of the cuisine. Sharyn Alfonsi appreciates the first dish, pkhalis, made with vegetables and walnuts—a staple in Georgian cuisine. Walnuts, akin to the French use of butter, play a crucial role in many dishes.
Grape leaves are also highlighted as a favorite ingredient, featured in dishes like tolma. The dinner comprises five courses with six dishes, each paired with a different glass of wine. Tekuna encourages tasting everything, emphasizing the unique flavors brought by wines from different regions.
Throughout the meal, Tekuna praises Georgia’s winemakers, describing a new revolution in winemaking that preserves old traditions while improving and creating exceptional wines. She showcases a distinctly Georgian wine, emphasizing its unique qualities.
In this simple English rewrite, the core content and meaning remain unchanged, with a focus on retaining the original information and structure.
Chef Tekuna explains the unique nature of amber wine, emphasizing its versatility as a universal wine that can be paired with both vegetables and meat. Sharyn Alfonsi expresses her uncertainty about serving amber wine and Chef Tekuna reassures her that it can go well with almost anything. They discuss the cultural significance of treating guests as if they were gods in Georgia, and Chef Tekuna toasts to the guests being from the gods.
Later in the conversation, they touch on the complexity of ordering wine from Georgia due to the country offering over 40 varieties, each with intricate names.
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Despite the challenge, Georgian wine is gaining popularity globally, with a notable increase in shipments to the United States. The narrative then shifts to a visit to Georgia’s wine country in the Kakheti region, where they meet John Wurderman, a 47-year-old American serving as an ambassador for Georgian wine. The segment concludes with a description of the vast vineyards in Kakheti, emphasizing its role as a major hub for wine production in Georgia.
Sharyn Alfonsi: How did an American end up acquiring all of this?
John Wurdeman: Well, it all began with a fascination for a country that became more intriguing the more I learned about it. Surprisingly, hardly anyone in my circle knew anything about it.
Wurdeman, originally from Santa Fe, New Mexico, was studying art in Russia when he explored nearby Georgia.
He loved it so much that he relocated there and, in 2006, purchased a 62-acre dilapidated vineyard. He hired local workers and established Pheasant’s Tears Winery.
Georgia, recognized as the birthplace of wine, boasts a mild climate and fertile soil, making it an ideal region for cultivating numerous grape varieties over thousands of years.
At one point, the country reportedly had over 1,400 native grape varieties, most of which were lost during the Soviet era, a period when diversity gave way to quantity.
John Wurdeman is actively involved in a nationwide initiative to revive Georgia’s ancient vines.
John Wurdeman: In Soviet times, out of 525 varieties, only about four or five were widely available commercially.
Sharyn Alfonsi: What happened to the rest?
John Wurdeman: Fortunately, Georgians continued cultivating them in their backyard. They were allowed to maintain small, private plots for personal use, preserving the ancestral varieties. So, when we aimed to reintroduce these ancient varieties, we sought out individual farmers who kept growing the grapes that their forefathers had preserved.
Recovering all the grape varieties is a significant undertaking for Georgians, symbolizing a declaration of independence from their Soviet past.
In 2014, the Georgian government established two research centers to identify, study, and cultivate these rare grape vines.
Scientists go to the vineyards every week to collect important data. They analyze the DNA of grape leaves, extract juice in the field, and test it in labs for diseases. Healthy vines are replanted. Currently, there are over 500 native grape varieties thriving in Georgia.
At Pheasant’s Tears, they employ ancient Georgian methods to craft their wine. Stems, skins, and juice are all combined, then poured into large qveris buried deep underground and sealed with clay. The mixture ferments and ages in these qveris.
John Wurdeman explains, “This is our lower qveri level.”
Sharyn Alfonsi asks, “Is all the wine here made in qveris?”
John Wurdeman responds, “Most all of it. There are a couple of wines we’ll be tasting later that are on the fresher, lighter side from western Georgia where we use stainless steel, but everything of structure.”
Sharyn Alfonsi inquires, “So, based on where they are, they have a different taste?”
John Wurdeman confirms, “Yeah. If they’re in a space that breathes versus a reductive space.”
The wine typically stays inside the qveris for nine months.
John Wurdeman adds, “This is where we age the wines.”
Afterward, it’s bottled and stored in a cellar.
Sharyn Alfonsi wonders, “So when are these bottles from?”
John Wurdeman replies, “These are from the last 15 years. It allows us to understand how the wines develop and what is the most ideal time for releasing.”
Nothing is hurried in Georgia, a fact we observed during lunchtime at the vineyard.
Workers were commemorating the harvest with a traditional Georgian feast known as a supra—a lavish meal typically held after weddings, funerals, baptisms, and births.
During our lunch, guests spontaneously burst into song, performing traditional Georgian folk songs that have endured for centuries. Some guests even started dancing, turning the lunch hour into an extended dinner affair.
Toasts followed, numbering half a dozen before dessert.
Sharyn Alfonsi: With so many toasts, songs, and dancing, it’s a wonder anyone manages to eat.
John Wurdeman: Yeah. But the supras last for quite a long time. If workers go out to work for a few hours in the field and come back together, they’ll have a supra. And they’ll propose toasts about the things that mean the most to them in life.
John Wurdeman: Some people have likened the Georgian Supra to an “academy,” where people come together to share their knowledge and learn from one another.
However, John Wurdeman acknowledges that educating the world about Georgian wines has its challenges.
Firstly, there are at least 40 varieties of Georgian wines served globally, and even the most sophisticated sommelier might struggle to pronounce them. Saperavi, rkhatsiteli, and mtsvane are not exactly easy on the tongue.
Then there’s the matter of the unusual color—the giant ginger elephant in the glass.
Sharyn Alfonsi: I’ve noticed a couple of people we’ve spoken to here shudder a bit when you say “orange wine” and say, “It’s amber.” Is there any difference?
John Wurdeman: No. In terms of modern wine language, they’re synonyms. But that was also a concern in the early conversations when we discussed “orange wine from Georgia.” People worried, “Is this some sort of citrus concoction being sold outside of Atlanta?”
Sharyn Alfonsi: What creates that beautiful color?
John Wurdeman: Essentially, you leave the must or juice of the grapes with skins, pips, and sometimes stems, extracting both pigment and phenolic structure from the skins. This changes the flavor as well as the color. But preconceptions can influence how we perceive the wine. If you were to show them that same wine in a black glass, they might say, “What a delightfully refreshing light red.” But when they see it from a white grape, they might think, “Is this somehow a bit clumsy or rustic? This doesn’t taste like my usual Sauvignon Blanc.”
Sharyn Alfonsi: A bit frustrating?
John Wurdeman: A friend of mine, a Master of Wine in London, once said at a conference, “The orange or amber wines of Georgia are not the mean sisters of whites but the introspective cousins of reds.”
However, over the last decade, the global embrace of the Georgian family of wines—reds, whites, and even “ambers”—has been significant. Last year, Georgia exported over 140 million bottles of wine to more than 65 countries.
Sharyn Alfonsi: What do you attribute to that kind of growth?
John Wurdeman: I think, in the beginning, we were walking around with maps and photographs, assuring people that we are not just swarthy versions of Russians. Georgians have their own language, wine culture, culinary culture, and a very ancient history. “Try the wines,” we said. But it took effort to get people to give us the benefit of the doubt and even to try.
Over the past decade, more than 2,000 new vineyards have taken root in the country, and last year, Georgian winemakers generated more than $100 million.
John Wurdeman: All of a sudden, it’s like watching a black and white picture of a rainbow come to color again. This diversity and expanse of color are returning to the Georgian table after sleeping for almost a few centuries.
For Georgians, it’s another reason to celebrate. For the rest of the world, it’s a chance to taste history.
Produced by Ashley Velie. Associate producer, Jennifer Dozor. Broadcast associate, Erin DuCharme. Edited by Michael Mongulla.
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