Hotels have mysteries, and some are a bit more unusual than the rest.
The first hotel I ever fell in love with was the Metropole, a charming, traditional establishment in Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam. Back in 2007, my wife and I had the pleasure of staying there during a break from our work covering the war in Iraq. We were captivated by the comfortable beds, the serene courtyard with a pool, and the hotel’s rich history as a hub of activity during the Vietnam War.
When we returned to Hanoi recently, we decided to stay at the Metropole once again. To our surprise, we discovered an incredible Australian story that reinforced my fascination with the hidden tales that hotels often hold and the unique way Australians navigate the world.
This story revolves around a bunker. Upon our check-in, we were offered the opportunity to join a complimentary guided tour. On our last night, we followed a guide named Tom on an hour-long journey through the hotel’s historical significance. The Metropole, originally built by the French in 1901, had functioned as a substitute embassy for various countries during the Vietnam War. Because the hotel hosted diplomats, combatants, and dignitaries, it remained relatively safe from bombings.
However, in 1965, as the war escalated, the hotel’s management decided to enhance its safety measures by constructing a five-room bunker next to the pool. According to Tom, this bunker was used at least until the end of 1972 when Joan Baez, the American folk singer, visited with a peace delegation during a major American offensive. During that time, she took refuge underground.
Joan Baez’s experience was widely publicized, and in an interview with Rolling Stone after her stay, she vividly described the city, saying, “It was like a moonscape with all the craters.”
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The bunker seemed to vanish, as noted by writer Viet Than Nguyen, “wars are fought twice, the first time on the battlefield, the second time in memory.” After the American withdrawal from Vietnam in 1973, the underground chambers beneath the posh hotel were forgotten by most.
Except for one lively Australian.
“Time for the bunker,” Tom declared.
As we descended the stairs near one end of the pool, he insisted we don helmets. The atmosphere was chilly, the ceilings were low. The bomb shelter had been rediscovered around a decade ago. It required the pumping out of water, restoration of lights, but there wasn’t much to see, except for graffiti etched into a wall on our right. Tom pointed to it: “BOB DEVEREAUX, 17 AUG 1975.”
Devereaux had been an administrator for the Australian Embassy from 1975 to 1977 when it was situated in the same hotel. Tom informed us that the Australians had used the shelter as a wine cellar.
I exchanged a knowing glance with my wife when we heard this. It made perfect sense.
When the bunker was reopened, Devereaux heard about it and called to apologize for his graffiti. Later, he returned to the bunker. Tom displayed an iPad with a photo of an older Australian man, with light hair and a printed shirt featuring tropical scenes. He was pointing at the mark he had made on the wall.
In a later interview, he said, “I can’t recall making the graffiti. They found a couple of empty bottles in the shelter, so it could have been when I was down there searching for a bottle of wine.”
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